Training Tips from Laurie Fass
 Is leaving a rope or leash trailing from their collar whenever you are home and awake! This means as long as you are there to supervise, your dog will have a leash or rope long enough for you to catch them quickly (outside expect to use a minimum of 20-50 feet). If you aren’t there to untangle the rope take it off! If this seems like a strange or excessive notion let me go through the reasons why it is so important: - Until your dog is reliable, physical follow through to get your dog to stop a behavior, or do a behavior is key. If you are just repeating yourself or trying to talk your dog into listening you will surely get unreliable results, if you get any results at all. - Imagine you dog steals your shoe. Do you really think it is a good idea to chase them to get it back? Now not only do they have a fine shoe, but also a great game of chase me. If you can step on a rope or leash, you can stop that problem quickly. If you are housebreaking your dog the leash/rope keeps them insight when not crated. Now imagine you are outside and your dog decides to run across the street to visit a neighbor or chase a squirrel. Without a long line you are in some serious trouble if a car is coming at the same time. I know people want their dogs to enjoy the freedom of running around, but until your dog is truly reliable (you know this when your dog is close to a year and has consistently stopped on command even with the most tempting distractions). Please be honest about your dog’s reliability. The number of dogs killed and injured by people’s good intentions, but naive expectations is staggering and heartbreaking. - If you make a habit of using the training line sometimes, and regularly test your dog to “see if your dog will listen”, you are inadvertently training your dog to know the difference between the line being on or off. As much as it is important to practice training your dog, it is equally IMPORTANT TO USE TRAINING WHENEVER YOU NEED IT THROUGHOUT THE DAY. If you put a leash on to do training, take it off and hope for the best, you will probably end up with a dog that only listens when the rope is on. Practice leaving the rope on just to get your dog to forget about it and accept it being there. - Realize dogs, and particularly puppies, phase in and out of cooperativeness. Just because a dog has listened some of the time does not imply reliability. This is especially true with puppies whose developmental stages cause them to retest you on issues you thought you had solved. Very young puppies tend to not run off because they are babies and are afraid to stray to far from safety, but almost all puppies get worse with regards to running away, before they get better. -If you don’t have a rope or leash trailing you handicap all your commands and sabotage getting reliability. You make it difficult or impossible to stop behaviors you need to interrupt. Just because the rope is an inconvenience and requires supervision and untangling, does not by any stretch of the imagination out weight the benefits. - The rope or leash should be something you don’t mind getting chewed or soiled. You can make your own with rope and bolt snap (the hardware at the end of a leash). Soaking the rope in bitter apple slows down chewing, but for a real hardcore chew fiend use a piece of cable (the wire coated in plastic used for tying dogs outside). To wean the trailing line away you will need to be patient and learn how to train your dog. Please don’t assume more control than you really have outside. If you have any doubt simply keep using the line for outside control and to avoid harm to your pet. How To Get Results In Training
In order to the most out of your dog training lessons it is a good idea to keep a few things in mind. First, you need to set goals. It isn’t necessary to place equal priority on every command. For example; you may not care if your dog does a perfect heel, but you do care about good leash manners and no pulling, or you may not mind if your dog jumps up on you but you don’t want to allow them to do this to your company. Take some time to think about what is important to you so you can focus on making strategies for those training issues. Realize that some goals will take more time and patience on your part. Your expectations may change as the training progresses. You may find that having conquered your first priorities you now have other goals or higher expectations. You may find that you need to modify your expectations because the effort necessary is beyond your ambition or is unrealistic. In either case you still need to set goals and plan your training so you are purposeful in your training. Remember it is always good to ask questions.
Now let’s think about the common errors people make: 1) Training is a gradual process of which the end result is a dog that follows verbal commands. The process involves DOING something when you give a command. Saying commands louder, repeating commands, or sounding angry is NOT doing something. 2) Keeping a rope or leash on your dog when you are home and awake is the only way you can be consistent in following through. If you are not directly holding on to the leash outside make sure it is a long line. If you do not have the leash in your hand it is unrealistic to think you are fast enough to catch your dog. Make the line as long as it needs to be. 3) Know what your physical follow through is going to be BEFORE you say anything. Already have a strategy in mind. Slow down, think before you speak. 4) The 3 step training process* that I teach is very effective when followed properly. Try to understand it and only progress through the steps when your dog is ready. 5) Both you and your dog are learning new skills. If your dog is not responding it is most likely that what you are doing is confusing. Ask questions and learn to have self-awareness. 6) Learn what skills are necessary. Most people experience a feeling of awkwardness as the get comfortable with the training process. Don’t expect yourself to instantly get it. You need to exercise patience and practice with yourself as well as your dog. Ask questions. 7) Think about how training can be used in everyday real situations and use it. Training should be the manners your dog abides by all the time, not some tricks they perform for cookies or when they don’t have a better offer. Practice in a variety of places and situations. Always follow through. If you give a command and you let your dog ignore it, they heard it, they will remember they blew it off, and you are actually training your dog for selective hearing. Commands become reliable from your dog when you become reliable in following through. 8) Practice is key. Progress occurs with repititon over time. It takes many repetitions over a long period of time in different situations for you to reasonably expect your dog to really understand what is expected. The expression “Slow and steady wins the race” is especially true when training your dog. 9) Be creative. Make training part of play. Stay before chasing a toy. Come to you and play tug. Use training when your dog is distracted on walks, when company comes. Always end training with your dog doing it the right way, even if it takes a little extra time. If you end training with your dog doing it right it will build you and your dog’s confidence and comprehension. When you dog starts to really “get it” they will know it and they will experience the pride you feel. A well-trained dog will increase the bond you have more than you can imagine.
· A quick synopsis of my 3 step training program is: · Step 1- you are holding the leash in your hand and guiding your dog as you speak, praising as your dog is compelled to obey. · Step 2 – You are holding the leash in your hand, but the leash is loose. You give your dog a momentary chance to choose to obey or disobey. You give a leash correction only if your dog is not paying attention and disregards your command, and you use praise as your dog chooses to respond. · Step 3 – You still have the leash on your dog, but you are not holding on to the leash, you pick up the leash and use it if your dog does not follow your verbal direction as in step 2, but since the leash is not in your hand there is a slight time delay. · DO NOT RUSH THROUGH THESE STEPS. It is confusing and unfair to your dog Stopping Jumping
Teaching your dog not to jump is a form of boundary training. Boundary training is essentially a dogs understanding not to cross any threshold without permission. The key to a dog’s understanding boundary training is the timing of the correction. You need to do the correction as your dog is actually starting to jump. Then praise your dog as soon as they are down. Before you begin training you may decide to make a choice on what your policy will be for jumping.
Your choices are;
#1 - No jumping at all, ever,
#2 - No jumping, except when invited, or
#3 - Jumping is OK except when told not to (this option is most appropriate for small dogs).
If you choose choice #1 (no jumping at all), then the correction needs to take place right away as your dog jumps. If you tell your dog to get down as they are jumping, then they’re understanding will be that’s it’s OK to get one free jump before getting down. If you approach it this way you are really teaching your dog choice #3.
If you choose choice #2 approach it the same way you would for choice #1 except you teach your dog an invitation to jump up, like patting your chest with the word “OK”.
If you choose choice #3; pick a command that means to stop like “Off” or “NO jump”. As you say this pull your dog gently off, or push them off. If your dog jumps after you place them off, use a correction and repeat your command.
Corrections:
You need to find a correction that will be effective for your dog. Here are some suggestions;
Mild - A shake can (a can with about 10 pennies taped closed).
- A plant mister bottle adjusted to a jet stream.
- Bang the wall with a magazine.
- A leash correction
Moderate - Using a harder leash correction.
- Dropping a aluminum baking sheet near your dogs feet
- Using a throw chain; a chain (like what is used to hang plants or chandeliers) in a circle configuration
Headstrong- A series of leash corrections
- Using a collar right behind your dogs ears (either use a snap back collar, or place the slip collar high on your dogs neck)
- Using a prong collar.
- Using a sound horn. This is a nautical device often use at sporting events and can be purchased where they sell sporting goods, or at a boat store.
- Using a remote collar (remote collars, or e-collars, can be adjusted from low to high and therefore can be used even with mild mannered dogs when used at the appropriate level)
Additional tips: Remember don’t keep your dog from starting to jump. The correction must take place while they are engaged in the jumping. Praise them when they are down on all fours but keep praise low key or it will encourage your dog to jump up again. This is important because we don’t want your dog to get confused and think want you want from them is to stay away from you or people all together. What we want is your dog to understand, you may say hello, but only when not jumping and are staying on all fours in a mannerly fashion. Practice by using helpers. The helper will tempt the dog to jump by a friendly, but not overly enthusiastic greeting, acting as most people behave when meeting a dog. Have someone talk to your dog as you prepare to give the correction. Instruct the helper to calmly praise your dog when they are down. You do the correcting for jumping up. It is not reasonable to expect your visitors to correct your dog for you.
If you are using leash corrections make sure you hold the leash short, but loose. Time the correction as you dog rears up. Use the leash corrections to the side to throw your dog off balance. Leash corrections are very effective and versatile, but you need to learn how to do them correctly.
Remember, like any other advice every situation and dog is different. If you have trouble following through successfully by the advice given here, that doesn’t mean you can’t train your dog. You just may need more personal help. Don’t give up, get help!
Most of the time dogs and children get along just fine. Unfortunately this is not always the case. The following guidelines are meant as an overview of things to consider ensuring a safe and happy relationship between pets and kids. There is no need to panic, but it would be naïve and negligent to not be careful. We do many things to safeguard our children like using car seats, or having them wear helmets. Why not apply the same safety considerations to their relationship with dogs. Sometimes problems arise that people are uncertain how to handle or interpret. Examples would be a dog growling or jumping boisterously. If you are not sure how to deal with these types of situations, it would be wise to seek professional advice. Every age a child goes through presents different challenges. Here are some ideas to consider:
Safety Guidelines for Introducing Dogs to New Babies and Young Children
Before Your New Baby is Born and Comes Home:
* Recognize you will have less time for your dog. This is especially a problem if your dog is used to getting all the attention they want on demand. Practice ignoring your dog so they can learn to adjust and learn to be a little more independent. This doesn’t mean neglect your dog. They still need you. It means more structure and better time management. It means you decide when you give attention, not your dog. Teach your dog a command to “Go” or back up, so this won’t come as a shock when you need space to attend to your baby.
* Practice leaving bassinets and car seats around. Teach your dog not to put their feet in them or jump up on them.
* If you haven’t already done so, teach your dog basic commands and use them throughout your day. A trained dog is a calmer dog and an easier to manage dog who can understand limitations.
* Scent is important to a dog so bring home blankets or clothing with the babies scent from the hospital/birthing area to get your dog familiar with the babies scent.
* Establish a safe and comfortable place for your dog to retreat to so they will not feel overwhelmed and over stimulated in all the excitement. If your dog has a crate use it, if not use a comfortable room away from household commotion. Most dogs act like they want to be right in the middle of all the excitement all the time, but for many dogs it becomes stressful, and like a young child they won’t on their own find a comfortable place to unwind, but will instead get over excited and cranky. This space is not meant to exile your dog but it is meant for them to have a place to retreat to, which will be more important when your baby starts to move around.
When You Bring Your Baby Home
* Greet you dog as you usually do. Don’t make a big fuss and get them excited, and don’t ignore them.
* Allow the dog to smell the baby. If you have an over zealous dog use a leash and/or keep your hand over the baby where your dog is smelling. By having your hand there, your dog would have to push your hand away to make physical contact and it is also an extra safety precaution as well as a way to teach your dog to not abruptly poke their done on your baby.
* Never leave a baby alone with a dog. Keep either the dog or the baby with you.
* Remember, not all accidents with dogs are because of dog bites. Little fragile people can get hurt by dogs jumping, pawing, walking on your baby, or getting knocked over.
* Don’t hesitate to tell your dog to “Go”. Do so calmly and firmly. You don’t want to create nervousness, but you don’t want to cater to a demanding dog. If a dog is needy for attention you will never satisfy them. Set limits. Give attention when you see fit.
* Teach your dog to walk gently by and not push through your baby.
Toddlers
* This is probably the most dangerous time for a baby because they are moving all over the place. As your child gets more mobile they are able to get to things that previously were inaccessible.
* Remember, toddlers do crazy things like throw stuff, grab, pinch, pull, and sometimes hit. A toddler has no way to understand that this might hurt or provoke a dog. Supervision is crucial at this age.
* This is a good time to help teach your child how to interact with your dog. Have them throw a toy for the dog. Teach them how to hold their hand flat and offer a treat.
* Teach your dog not to grab food from your child and to only take it only when it is offered.
* Be careful to keep your toddler away from your dog’s food, toys, and to not bother them while they are sleeping. This is a good time to use the safe place I referred to above.
* Don’t expect a toddler to understand reason. You be the one to move the dog or child away as is appropriate.
Young Children
* One of the number one causes of dog bites with children is a child innocently going over to and petting a dog. Your dog may be fine, but many dogs are not. Teach your child to NEVER pet a dog without asking permission first. This includes a dog you pet yesterday. Many dogs react differently when their owners are not present.
* Hopefully your child will learn to both love and respect animals. Creating fear is not the goal, teaching safety is. This is a message that your child will not absorb if it is not repeated and practiced.
* Teach children not to run if they encounter a strange dog. Back away slowly and calmly while not making eye contact with the dog. Get an adult.
* Teach your children not to tease dogs, Kids don’t understand throwing things at fences, barking back at dogs, and running around yelling can create an aggressive reaction.
* If you have a dog, teach them not to chase running children, bicycles, kids on skateboards, etc.
* Teach your children to let a dog come to them, extend a hand for the dog to smell, and pet gently, all after getting permission from the dog’s owner. Teach them how to gently approach and not rush over and give big hugs that many dogs would misinterpret resulting in a bite.
If you have any questions or concerns about any of this advise or any other questions, please contact me at (860) 667-1847 or lauriefass@yahoo.com. When children and dogs get along well together it is a wonderful experience, with a little bit of planning and foresight, there is no reason for it to be anything else.
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